After a long and dramatic drive up to Ullapool, we were treated to a final hour of travel through picturesque landscapes and stunning sunshine until we pulled up at our given coordinates in the remote region of Assynt. But we could see no signs of a bothy. Luckily Lachlan arrived and escorted us down a hidden steep path to the seashore which revealed a ramshackle but charming cabin complete with allotment, sauna, gym equipment and wall-less eco toilet on a small croft. Our hosts for the weekend were The MacLean Brothers, no not a new boy band but the most dynamic, entrepreneurial trio who, along with their dad, Charlie MacLean, have set up The MacLean Foundation*.

THE PURPOSE OF OUR VISIT WAS TO GET A TASTE FOR OCEAN ROWING AND THE MOST ARDUOUS, YET EXHILARATING TASK THE BROTHERS HAVE COMMITTED TO SINCE COMPLETING THE TALISKER WHISKY ATLANTIC CHALLENGE NEARLY 5 YEARS AG0.
 

As soon as we arrived, we were warmly welcomed and offered a beer as the three brothers, Lachlan, Jamie, and Ewan, prepared a hearty curry with the precision and teamwork of trained chefs. After a delicious meal and jovial chat, Jamie went to fire up the little sauna by the shore and the 7 of us piled in until suitably broiled, at which point we dunked into the glistening black sea underneath the stars. It was a magical way to refresh and connect with nature after a long day driving north from the city.

The next day we were up early, and the boys prepared the most enormous bowl of porridge. We quickly realised these lads run on about 40,000 (or so it seemed) calories a day, and it soon became clear why. Kit packed, swimmer on, we headed out to the boat. After a fascinating tour of their specially created vessel, which looks more like a big plastic shoe than something that you’d want to live on for 130+ days, the first two of us novices set off to try our hand at rowing, while the others went on the rib to go fishing. 

This first thing that struck me about rowing, and it seems obvious now, is, you’re going backwards, with mainly your teammate’s back for a view. It kind of gives a sense of solitude even though sharing a small space with others. The October sun beamed down on us. We saw seals heads pop up, eagles fly overhead, and the rolling hills softly pass by with each stroke. Two hours in and we’re close to shore, I’m sweaty and feeling the blisters beginning to start on my hands. 130+ days of this? On this floating shoe? With just row, row, row!? I’ve gained a deeper understanding of how fully challenging their undertaking is. Besides the impressive and seemingly daunting challenge the boys have set themselves, what strikes me most is just how humble and unphased they talk about it; as if entering a fun run or something. 

We arrive on shore and set up a makeshift BBQ. Big fat sausages, with some homemade bread that Jamie had casually rustled up that morning. Lachlan gave a masterclass on gutting fish, then we played a hilarious and competitive game of ‘rocks’. So engrossed in the laughter and chaos of our game we didn’t realise the time. An abnormally low tide left the speed boat beached on the white sands of Oldany Island.

The next two rowing virgins set off and would take a couple of hours to reach the perfectly chosen seafood shack for our dinner reservation (yes, we had to book to secure the catch of the day). While four were left chilling on the beach until the water eventually came back in allowing the boat to eventually rocket across the water to meet the others and tuck into some tasty grub, swiftly followed by a much needed ‘waterhole’ stop at the nearby 'bar in a Spar'.

As one final taste of what the several-months-long Pacific row has in store for the lads, on our way back from the pub, in the darkness of night, the weather turned, and the wind picked up. Only a 45-minute speed ride back to the bothy, albeit longer for those rowing, but that was more than enough for us to get soaked and cold – our thoughts turned to imagining what it must be like with nothing but miles of open ocean, three in a well-engineered shoe and all aspects of the elements thrown in. It was a ‘rather them than us’ moment.

What the Maclean brothers are embarking on is truly a superhuman feat of skill, endurance, and mental fortitude. Not undertaken by hardcore, elite sportsmen, but by three very sound, very dedicated and very normal brothers.